Cuisine Cuisine @ The Mira Hotel

Cuisine Cuisine, Mira Hotel, Kowloon - Hong Kong

Dim Sum is traditionally served at breakfast or lunch.  Dimsum dishes are meant to be shared too.  It is also an outing which usually comprises of families going out to eat together or perhaps larger groups of friends/colleagues.  However, it is rarely a solo dining experience.  I've never dined at a Michelin rated restaurant alone and I wanted to get an idea of what a lunch might be like for a solo diner at the popular Cuisine Cuisine restaurant housed in the Mira Hotel in Tsim Sha Tsui.

When I entered the restaurant at about 1:45 pm, I signalled to the hostess that I'd be only one person dining for lunch.  She didn't flinch and I was promptly seated.  I did draw some attention from the manager and head waiters for some reason.  All of them were friendly but I kept getting asked what was the reason of my visit to the restaurant.  That seems rather strange when they work in a 'restaurant'.  It seemed to me at the time that they probably thought I was a critic.

(A stylish dining room for a modern approach to Chinese dim sum)

Amuse Bouche: Double Boiled Fungus and Bitter Winter Melon

For an amouse bouche, this must have been one of the worst ones I'd ever had.  The fungus was passable even for a bland dish.  The Winter Melon on the other hand I gathered was an acquired taste but I hardly stomach the pickled taste of this odd vegetable. 

FIRST DISH: Steamed Carrot Rice Flour Rolls Stuffed With Barbecued Pork 48 HKD

True, it was ''orange'' like in nature however I found the rice roll to be nice in texture but lacking in any subtle carrot flavors.  The mix of barbecued pork with chives was a welcome addition to the overall taste.

SECOND DISH: Crispy Mini Gultinous Rice Balls With Green Tea And Red Bean 38 HKD

I wish someone had told me to order this last instead of my second dim sum choice.  It was almost too sweet and I would have rather preferred to eat it as a dessert.  Pretty good though.

THIRD DISH: Pan Fried Pork Bun With Chives and Chilli 75 HKD

If you slice this pork bun open, it would have revealed it's grey and unappealing contents.  The grayish mixture of pork and spices was better in taste than in sight.  No heights, no lows.  Just an ordinary pan fried pork bun with some serious heat from the chillies.

4TH & 5TH DISH: Steamed Wild Mushroom and Black Truffle Dumpling 38 HKD / Steamed Sweet Potato with Shrimp and Vegetables 48 HKD

The instant this dim sum basket was served to me, one of the head waiters eyed it extremely carefully.He looked at me, he looked at the food and then thrust his hand out to reclaim the dim sum basket and return it to the kitchen.  ''Woah, whats happening'' I asked?  He made no eye contact with.  A mellow voice now repiled, ''Sir, I can't serve it to you like this''.  Just as soon as he was going to make a bee-line for the kitchen, I saw the problem.  Both of the casings housing the indiviual pieces of dim sum had been left too long to steam and were starting to crack.

The steamed wild mushroom and black truffle dumplings were sublime.  A very pleasant and welcomed mixture of mushroom and truffles were full of flavor and a delight to eat.

The sweet potato and shrimp dumplings were equally as good however I was more impressed by the presentation and look of the dumpling.  The purple color really made it appealing and had a certain wow factor that was missing in so many other dim sum restaurants.  Just a personal observation. 

The last word:

I don't think I'd do the dim sum experience solo again.  Everyone working at the restaurant recognized that I was the only person eating by myself so a few people came and tried to help in their own ways.  One brought a newspaper so I could pass the time away, two waitresses made friendly conversation and the manager repeatedly came over to see if I was ok and needed anything else.  If you notice the portions of the food, they are in smaller versions that normally served.  What they gave me was the single portion amount for less money and thankfully the bill reflected this.

Is it worthy of all the hype in the guide books? That's a hard question to answer.  Cuisine Cuisine, with or without its coveted michelin star, does a wonderful creative version of Chinese dim sum classics for the 21st century.  As of recently, I don't think I have been to any Chinese place yet which is worthy of a Michelin status for dim sum.  It's going to have to take more than just modernized dim sum to get an accolade such as as a Michelin star.

My Score: 15/20


Food: 3.5
Presentation: 3.5
Ambiance: 4
Staff: 4
Cuisine Cuisine at the Mira Hotel

http://www.themirahotel.com/en/dining/cuisine-cuisine.aspx



 

Glass Hostaria

Glass Hostaria - Rome

Cobbled streets, noisy students, empty beer bottles.  Windy alleys, neon signs, dingy pubs.  These are the sights and sounds of funky Trastevere.  One of Rome's members to the Michelin Guide System have settled down here as well.  Head Chef Cristina Bowerman runs Glass Hostaria serving up modern takes on Italian classics and other nouveau dishes here since 2005.

After countless trattorias my wife and I visited during our sojourn in Rome, we decided to try Glass Hostaria for a different approach on Italian cuisine.  Instead of choosing the affordable 4 course @ 65 Euro set dinner, my wife and I opted for choosing specific dishes off the menu instead. 

BREAD

Of the six different bread variations that they brought before the amuse bouche, only two are worth mentioning.  The large crispy fennel cracker and the black squid ink with dried fruits bread.

AMUSE BOUCHE: Lettuce Soup, Bacon, and Ricotta

Our amuse bouche was this lettuce soup that our waiter said was a cold amuse bouche.  To their correction however, the soup was indeed not cold but pretty much lukewarm.  It was garnished with bacon bits and ricotta cheese.  They served the same dish to my wife who had informed them that she doesn't eat meat (nonetheless bacon bits were still on her portion). 
Also, if it was supposed to be a cold soup, why was the dish almost tepid in temperature?  Shouldn't it have been served in cold plates? 

MY APPETIZER: Tagliolini with Leeks, Oysters and Vanilla Oil

At 22 Euros, I was hoping for more than two oysters but as you can see, that was it.  It was pretty tasty though for such a simple dish.  I know less is more for the credo of most chefs but this dish needed an extra (something) just to given it some character.

HER APPETIZER: Mushroom Puree and Poached Eggs.

At 18 Euros, this was my wife's appetizer which was suggested by the waiter in lieu of what was proposed on the menu.  She said it wasn't bad but for a mushroom puree though it tasted exactly like roasted chestnuts.  I also have to add the plating skills on this dish make it look like some kind of unedible gloop rather than a Michelin starred dish.

HER MAIN COURSE: Pastificio dei Campi Linguine, Roasted Red Pepper Water, and Anchovies from Cetara

22 Euros. Unfortunately she didn't like it and neither did I.  It was kind of a mish mash of odd flavours.  Perhaps it was a question of palate, but I would never reorder to it give it another try.

MY MAIN COURSE: White Fish, Curry, Coconut and Eggplant 

This was my main course and by far the most unpleasant.  The eggplant and eggplant based capellini were not bad but the 'white fish' was flavourless and was seriously overcooked.  As soon as I had tasted the first biteful, I just wanted to ask for the check and leave.  I was really let down by such shoddy cooking.  28 Euros and hardly justifiable.

DESSERT: Banana Ice Cream, Raspberry Flakes, Peanut Butter and Chocolate Sponge Cake

Ok, so their pastry chef wasn't that bad.  It was a good dessert but what you see in the picture is 12 Euros for miniscule porportions!

PETIT FOURS: Orange Lollipops, Chocolate Madeleines, Pate de Fruits, Creme Caramel, Shredded Coconut Chocolate, and Buttered Fudge

I found the petit fours to be a nice touch although their chocolate madeleines were dry and frankly, almost stale.  Other than that, we quite enjoyed the rest of them. 

The last word:

After a bill of 120 Euros for two people, in my opinion, I could definitely advise fellow gourmets (in search of fine cuisine) to steer clear of this restaurant.  I just can't see how come Michelin chose this establishment to be a 1 starred restaurant.  The chef came and spoke to us after dinner to say a quick hello and she was friendly enough but I felt it impolite to tell her that I didn't enjoy her food.  It wasn't like we were ever going to return and I decided that she was probably lucky when the inspectors came.  In retrospect, perhaps I should have said something to her.  I guess this is another (could have, would have, should have) situation.

We also had one bizarre encounter with one member of staff.  Due to the fact that my wife was pregnant, she asked the sommelier if she could order a Virgin Bloody Mary.  ''Impossible'' he replied.  He told her the best thing he could get her was water or beer.  Beer??? She had just told him that she wanted a non-alcoholic beverage and he replied that he had a good beer that he could offer instead.  Perhaps a lack of translation skills?  I think not.  Miracously, he was able to find a bottle of Schweppes Lemon which my wife happily accepted.

My Score: 12.5/20


Food: 2.5
Presentation: 3
Ambiance: 4
Staff: 3


Glass Hostaria - Vicolo del Cinque 58, Rome

http://www.glass-restaurant.it/

Gourmet Restaurant Schloss Lerbach

Gourmet Restaurant Schloss Lerbach - Bergisch Gladbach

In 1997, young Nils Henkel went to work for legendary German chef, Dieter Muller.  Through hours of hard work and experience, 7 years later, Henkel grabs a chef's position in the kitchen brigade assisting the head chef.  In 2008, the torch is passed from Muller to his protege and Henkel finally becomes Head Chef at this prestigious restaurant. Armed with this knowledge I booked a lavish lunch on Easter Sunday.  There was only one menu at 165 Euros and that was the eight course Easter lunch menu.

FIRST AMUSE BOUCHE: Vegetable Sushi and Mousse of Maize

Julienne vegetable sushi wrapped in nori, topped with jellied aloe.  Adjacent to it, mousse of maize on toasted corn cracker with sweet popcorn.  While the maize mousse with popcorn was ok, the vegetable sushi was plain weird.  It didn't work for me at all.  Not a good way to start a long lunch!

SECOND AMUSE BOUCHE: Listed Below

Left: asparagus jelly with cream cheese and artichoke puree w/ olive oil. 
Center: Asparagus foam and oxtail mousse.
Right: Artichoke tuile with Braised Artichoke and Sea Bass cooked in its own jus.

Technically, all the dishes were very well planned and created.  The artichoke tuile and braised artichoke were divine though.

FIRST DISH:  Deconstructed Millefeuile of Duck Liver With Peas

Every bite brought a smile to my face.  The combination of duck liver and peas were truly outstanding.  The crunch from the toasted bread encasing the duck liver as a sandwich also worked perfectly well.

SECOND DISH: Dandelion Surprise Egg with Brioche

The ingredients consisted of quail egg, duck rillettes, oxtail and dandelion flower mixed into the egg shell for the so called surprise.  It was good but maybe a bit overpowering with the duck rillettes? Surprisingly, the brioche wasn't tasty at all.  I was even expecting the brioche to be cut into 'soldiers' to dip the bread into the egg surprise but as you can see, this was not the case.

THIRD DISH: North Sea Shrimp, Atlantic Char, Marinated Cucumber, Dill and Fish Roe

When I was presented this dish, you had to just take a step back and admire the creativity and the vision of Nils Henkel.  I mean you could visually interpret the dish in so many different ways.  It was very tasty, yes...but I have to say bravo to the chef.  Everytime I see this photo, I just think it's brilliant.

FOURTH DISH: Pike Perch with Spring Morels, Chives and Fried Cauliflower

This was a really superior dish throughout what I had eaten so far.  The cooking of the fish was outstanding.  The fried cauliflower worked fantastically with the strong morel flavors and it was a dish in complete unison with each indiviual ingredient.  The plating of the dish also deserves top marks.

FIFTH DISH: Icelandic Crayfish, Cumin, Purple Carrots, Pistachio Mash

This dish looked amazing.  In fact it almost felt playful and somewhat cartoonish in nature.  When I took my first bite of the Icelandic Crayfish, I knew I had reached the pinnacle of Nils Henkel's reperetoire. All I coud taste was pure bliss.  It was so tender, exquisite and full of flavor.  I have never heard of Icelandic Crayfish and I still haven't been able to find much info about on the web but I have to say, whether it comes down to the taste of this dish or to the key elements like preparing the crayfish - one thing is for sure.  This is one of the best dishes I have ever had in my life.

SIXTH DISH: Asparagus, Violet Flower, Mascarpone, Herbs & Coffee Oil

At last.  At long last.  A subpar dish.  The 3 stalks of asparagus were cooked very well as one might guess by now.  However, in this case it wasn't exactly a problem with the preparation or cooking of the dish - it was the overall taste.  The coffee bean oil mixed with the cream, violet flowers and variations of seeds made the whole dish taste too salty and lacking in finesse.  I didn't want to send it back to the kitchen, but it was really a bit too much and a small let down in the string of fantastic food thus far at the restaurant.

SEVENTH DISH: Muritz Lamb with Radish, Wild Garlic, Lamb Cheek and Fondant Potatoes

Lamb might be one of the few animals that I wouldn't choose to order to eat.  That being said, I told myself I'd make an exception to eat it at this restaurant.  I'd heard that lamb was traditionally served at Easter therefore it had to make an appearance on the eight course menu.  The lamb was great as were the fondant potatoes et al.

There was one odd feature though.  The dish was served with a bowl of tripe (not pictured) which I found lacking in flavour and not exactly neccessary. 

EIGHTH DISH: Strawberry, Rhubarb, Buckwheat, Ivory Chocolate and Chervil Ice cream

After finishing the lamb dish, I wasn't sure I could stomach anymore.  I mean the menu could have been six courses and I would have been a happy camper.  Alas, there obviously had to be a dessert dish.  The chevril ice cream was nicely done, not too overpowering and not too sweet either.  It provided an excellent contrast to the sour rhubarb which I found positively delightful.  The amount of technique that went into this dish is amazing.  Notice the tiny rhubarb like spaghetti on top of the strawberry cake followed by the rhubarb tuiles.  It was just the right amount of sourness I was looking for to tie the dessert all together.  I kept force feeding myself just to show the 'kitchen' that I didn't want to waste any of the food. 

PETIT FOURS: Apple with Salted Caramel Crumble and Assorted Chocolates

It took real courage to eat this last plate of crumble.  The crumble was just so-so.  In fact, I don't really remember much about it.  We asked for the remaining petit fours to be boxed up so we could give them to a friend of ours as a thank you for watching our dogs while we were on our Easter vacation.

Lunch at Gourmet Restaurant Schloss Lerbach was a welcomed experience.  Mr. Henkel even came out to greet us during the meal to ask if everything had been pleasant.  I had remarked that his technical skills were outstanding.  He politely thanked my wife and I for dining at the restaurant and quickly made a bee line back to the kitchen.  Although the lunch was great, I wasn't prepared for an astronomical bill.  The accompanying beverages that were not included in the lunch menu were so expensive that we could have fit in two of the regular four course lunch menu including aperitif, water and coffee for the same price.

The Schloss Lerbach hotel is a Relais & Chateaux member and part of the Althoff Hotel Group. 

Gourmet Restaurant Schloss Lerbach

http://www.schlosshotel-lerbach.com/en/cuisine/gourmet-restaurant-lerbach.html

Lindehof

Restaurant de Lindehof - Nuenen

Suriname was once a colony of the Dutch and the English in South America.  Suriname's most famous export?  Try these world class football greats: Ryan Babel, Clarence Seedorf, Patrick Kluivert, Edgar Davids, Ruud Gullit, Frank Rijkaard, among many others. 

Soenil Bahadoer runs Restaurant de Lindehof in sleepy Neunen, a village not far Eindhoven in the Netherlands.  While the exterior facade of the restaurant resembles a residence, the interiors showcase a modest but comfortable dining room and a sneak peak at a semi open kitchen behind glass doors.

Introductions were warm and curteous from restaurant staff and aperitif orders were taken swiftly.  Moments later, the glass doors opened once again to reveal a tall figure with a dark complexion.  He was none other than head chef, Soenil Bahadoer.  Dressed in his chef whites and Diesel Jeans, he personally greeted my wife and I to welcome us to his restaraunt.  A moment later he excused himself to attend to his duties.

AMUSE BOUCHE: Left: Various Vegetable Crisps Right: White Chocolate, Mascarpone, Basil with Chocolate Pearls

APPETIZER: Braised Octopus, Sole Sous Vide, Red Shiso, Oxtail, Shaved Beetroot

A pretty looking dish indeed.  The star of the dish for me was the shaved beetroot (only because I'm extremely partial to it).  The fish was fine too however lacking in that extra oomph to bring everything together.  What is it with chefs and oxtail???  I don't think I have been to one high end restaurant that doesn't have oxtail in a dish or on its menu!

MAIN COURSE: Caged 'Wild' Duck with Foie Gras, Port Jelly, Asparagus and Green Onion

When I was presented this dish, the waiter asked me to start with the foie gras 'bombe' atop of the jellied port biscuit.  Pure bliss.  The combination of the foie gras and port jelly was just a perfect match of gelatin and creaminess.  I was then instructed to eat the duck breast covered in a dry rub of five spice with spring onion and finally the duck with asparagus.  The version on the left, I suspect was Badahoer's interpretation of Peking Duck sans the hoisin sauce and the pancakes.  On the right, the meat was packed with flavour and well seasoned.  I'm positive the use of asparagus was to showcase the fact that it was a seasonal item.  Tasty as it was, I didn't get the combination of all the elements on the plate.  There was no sense of belonging other than the fact that the key of this dish was the delicious duck.

DESSERT: Peanut Butter Ice Cream and Cake, Carrot, and Garam Marsala and Cardamom

Be it the presentation or the taste of the dessert, there was something clearly lacking.  It seemed to have all the right ideas alas, it's a dish I wouldn't order again.  It's obvious that Chef Badahoer wanted to mold European and Surinamese tastes together but it just failed to work.

PETIT FOURS: Assorted Chocolates, Rum Sponge, Marshmallows, and Brownie

The last word:

Lunch at Restaurant de Lindehof was a pleasant experience to say the least.  There were two reasons we wanted to try de Lindehof. 1.) It was exactly half way from our home in Belgium enroute to Dusseldorf so it would have been a welcomed lunch break.  2.) I found the idea that of a Surinamese-Dutch chef with Hindustani roots would have put a cultural spin on a Michelin Star restaurant.  True, many of Chef Badahoer's dishes had elements of Indian herbs and spices and I think it's what makes his dishes standout whether they were perfect or mediocre.  Our time was well spent and I have to say that all the staff were very amicable.

Restaurant de Lindehof has a two course lunch meal at 32.50 Euro including coffee and petit fours or you could try the Soenil's Signature Menu (which I had) at 42.50 Euro including three of de Lindehof's favorite dishes.

*Side note: Towards the end of lunch service, we saw a truck pullling up to deliver some new plants for the restaurant.  None other than Chef Badahoer ran out to help the guy unload the plants and carry each heavy stump himself to his domain.  Kudos-not only is he a gastronomic chef but also a well rounded guy.  He could have asked any one of his staff to do it for him, but he chose to undertake the task himself. 

My Score: 16/20


Food: 4
Presentation: 4
Ambiance: 4
Staff: 4

Restaurant de Lindehof - Beekstraat 1, Nuenen CS 5671

http://www.restaurant-delindehof.nl/Dutch/Welkom-de-lindehof.html

Látelier Du Peintre

L'atelier Du Peintre - Colmar, France

It is such a welcome feeling when you dine at a restaurant when after you finish your main course, you realize you had a great dinner.  The feeling is intensified even more so when you realize that you had just had dinner at a Michelin starred restaurant without any prior knowledge.

L'atelier du peintre was truly a little gem of a restaurant.  Translated from French, it means 'the workshop of the painter' - a reference to Martin Schongauer, a German painter/engraver from the 15th century in Colmar.  Though the dining room echoed signs of transformation from a previous tenant in the past - the modern transition of what is now L'atelier du peintre is quite remarkable. 

Amuse Bouche: Smoked Salmon with Shaved Toasted Almonds, Deep Fried Pork Pastry

Appetizer: Brittany Lobster Ravioli, Carrots, Basil, Verveine Soup

All you need is one bite of this succulent lobster ravioli to understand that Chef Lefebvre knows exactly what he's doing.  Perfectly cooked lobster filled the contents of this delicate ravioli pasta appetizer.  One mouthful was enough to put a smile on my face, put down my fork, and realize that I'd had maybe one of my favorite dishes this year.

After a perfect appetizer, you would have though that the main course would have gotten even better.  Not so at this restaurant.  I couldn't fault the scallops nor the season vegetables but what was the culprit you ask?  Orange jus.  It just made the flavors all too sickly sweet.  It really diluted some of the scallop's flavours of sea and replaced it with sweet citrus?  I think this was creativity taken too far.

Main Course: Seasonal Vegetables, Scallops, & Orange Jus

Dessert: Braided Vermicelli, Lemon Mousse and Sorbet, Mint and Marshmallow

After a dismal main course, things picked up once again with a stellar dessert.  The fluffy marshmallows pressed tightly against the lemon mousse was lovely and the use of braided vermicelli was excellent for a bit of contrast with the texture.  It was great how the mint played against the sourness of the lemon - which was balanced with natural flavours of the vermicelli, and once again paired up against the sweetness of the marshamallow. 

Petit Fours: Powdered Almonds & Madeleine, Chocolate With Lime Jelly & Pate de Fruits

I didn't eat the almonds because I had chipped a tooth so my choices were: madeleine or the chocolate or the pate de fruits.  At this point, most of us were full so I made a choice - I ate all four morsels of the pate de fruits before anyone changed their mind.

Our party had chosen a la carte items from the menu instead of sticking to the restaurant's extremely well priced menu for dinner.  To this day, I'm still not sure why we didn't go for the menu as our a la carte choices totalled the same price of a menu (that included more dishes).

Dinner service has three different menus:

The Goya (3 courses) at 37€
The Petit Galerie (5 courses) at 57€
The Grande Galerie (7 courses) at 72€

I'd highly recommend this resaurant to anyone in search of a reputable restaurant in sleepy Colmar.  It isn't hard to find top notch food in the town but I feel that this restaurant has something a little bit special that sets itself apart from its competitors.

*Side note: If any of you have seen Gordon Ramsay's Kitchen Nightmares, Mr.Lefebvre was featured as the  head chef of the Inverness restaurant, Abstract.  After filming Kitchen Nightmares, it seemed as if things were going well for Abstract and they were poised to get their first Michelin star.  Obviously, it did not pan out that way  Due to a row with Abstract's owner (reasons unknown), Chef Lefebvre relocated to Colmar where he opened L'atelier De Peintre.


My Score: 17/20

Food: 4
Presentation: 4.5
Ambiance: 4.5
Staff: 4

L'Atelier Du Peintre - 1, Rue Schongauer, Colmar, France
http://atelier-peintre.fr/