Restaurant de Lindehof - Nuenen
Suriname was once a colony of the Dutch and the English in South America. Suriname's most famous export? Try these world class football greats: Ryan Babel, Clarence Seedorf, Patrick Kluivert, Edgar Davids, Ruud Gullit, Frank Rijkaard, among many others.
Soenil Bahadoer runs Restaurant de Lindehof in sleepy Neunen, a village not far Eindhoven in the Netherlands. While the exterior facade of the restaurant resembles a residence, the interiors showcase a modest but comfortable dining room and a sneak peak at a semi open kitchen behind glass doors.
Introductions were warm and curteous from restaurant staff and aperitif orders were taken swiftly. Moments later, the glass doors opened once again to reveal a tall figure with a dark complexion. He was none other than head chef, Soenil Bahadoer. Dressed in his chef whites and Diesel Jeans, he personally greeted my wife and I to welcome us to his restaraunt. A moment later he excused himself to attend to his duties.
AMUSE BOUCHE: Left: Various Vegetable Crisps Right: White Chocolate, Mascarpone, Basil with Chocolate Pearls
A pretty looking dish indeed. The star of the dish for me was the shaved beetroot (only because I'm extremely partial to it). The fish was fine too however lacking in that extra oomph to bring everything together. What is it with chefs and oxtail??? I don't think I have been to one high end restaurant that doesn't have oxtail in a dish or on its menu!
MAIN COURSE: Caged 'Wild' Duck with Foie Gras, Port Jelly, Asparagus and Green Onion
When I was presented this dish, the waiter asked me to start with the foie gras 'bombe' atop of the jellied port biscuit. Pure bliss. The combination of the foie gras and port jelly was just a perfect match of gelatin and creaminess. I was then instructed to eat the duck breast covered in a dry rub of five spice with spring onion and finally the duck with asparagus. The version on the left, I suspect was Badahoer's interpretation of Peking Duck sans the hoisin sauce and the pancakes. On the right, the meat was packed with flavour and well seasoned. I'm positive the use of asparagus was to showcase the fact that it was a seasonal item. Tasty as it was, I didn't get the combination of all the elements on the plate. There was no sense of belonging other than the fact that the key of this dish was the delicious duck.
DESSERT: Peanut Butter Ice Cream and Cake, Carrot, and Garam Marsala and Cardamom
Be it the presentation or the taste of the dessert, there was something clearly lacking. It seemed to have all the right ideas alas, it's a dish I wouldn't order again. It's obvious that Chef Badahoer wanted to mold European and Surinamese tastes together but it just failed to work.
PETIT FOURS: Assorted Chocolates, Rum Sponge, Marshmallows, and Brownie
The last word:
Lunch at Restaurant de Lindehof was a pleasant experience to say the least. There were two reasons we wanted to try de Lindehof. 1.) It was exactly half way from our home in Belgium enroute to Dusseldorf so it would have been a welcomed lunch break. 2.) I found the idea that of a Surinamese-Dutch chef with Hindustani roots would have put a cultural spin on a Michelin Star restaurant. True, many of Chef Badahoer's dishes had elements of Indian herbs and spices and I think it's what makes his dishes standout whether they were perfect or mediocre. Our time was well spent and I have to say that all the staff were very amicable.
Restaurant de Lindehof has a two course lunch meal at 32.50 Euro including coffee and petit fours or you could try the Soenil's Signature Menu (which I had) at 42.50 Euro including three of de Lindehof's favorite dishes.
*Side note: Towards the end of lunch service, we saw a truck pullling up to deliver some new plants for the restaurant. None other than Chef Badahoer ran out to help the guy unload the plants and carry each heavy stump himself to his domain. Kudos-not only is he a gastronomic chef but also a well rounded guy. He could have asked any one of his staff to do it for him, but he chose to undertake the task himself.
My Score: 16/20
Food: 4
Presentation: 4
Ambiance: 4
Staff: 4
Restaurant de Lindehof - Beekstraat 1, Nuenen CS 5671
http://www.restaurant-delindehof.nl/Dutch/Welkom-de-lindehof.html
Suriname was once a colony of the Dutch and the English in South America. Suriname's most famous export? Try these world class football greats: Ryan Babel, Clarence Seedorf, Patrick Kluivert, Edgar Davids, Ruud Gullit, Frank Rijkaard, among many others.
Soenil Bahadoer runs Restaurant de Lindehof in sleepy Neunen, a village not far Eindhoven in the Netherlands. While the exterior facade of the restaurant resembles a residence, the interiors showcase a modest but comfortable dining room and a sneak peak at a semi open kitchen behind glass doors.
Introductions were warm and curteous from restaurant staff and aperitif orders were taken swiftly. Moments later, the glass doors opened once again to reveal a tall figure with a dark complexion. He was none other than head chef, Soenil Bahadoer. Dressed in his chef whites and Diesel Jeans, he personally greeted my wife and I to welcome us to his restaraunt. A moment later he excused himself to attend to his duties.
AMUSE BOUCHE: Left: Various Vegetable Crisps Right: White Chocolate, Mascarpone, Basil with Chocolate Pearls
APPETIZER: Braised Octopus, Sole Sous Vide, Red Shiso, Oxtail, Shaved Beetroot
A pretty looking dish indeed. The star of the dish for me was the shaved beetroot (only because I'm extremely partial to it). The fish was fine too however lacking in that extra oomph to bring everything together. What is it with chefs and oxtail??? I don't think I have been to one high end restaurant that doesn't have oxtail in a dish or on its menu!
MAIN COURSE: Caged 'Wild' Duck with Foie Gras, Port Jelly, Asparagus and Green Onion
When I was presented this dish, the waiter asked me to start with the foie gras 'bombe' atop of the jellied port biscuit. Pure bliss. The combination of the foie gras and port jelly was just a perfect match of gelatin and creaminess. I was then instructed to eat the duck breast covered in a dry rub of five spice with spring onion and finally the duck with asparagus. The version on the left, I suspect was Badahoer's interpretation of Peking Duck sans the hoisin sauce and the pancakes. On the right, the meat was packed with flavour and well seasoned. I'm positive the use of asparagus was to showcase the fact that it was a seasonal item. Tasty as it was, I didn't get the combination of all the elements on the plate. There was no sense of belonging other than the fact that the key of this dish was the delicious duck.
Be it the presentation or the taste of the dessert, there was something clearly lacking. It seemed to have all the right ideas alas, it's a dish I wouldn't order again. It's obvious that Chef Badahoer wanted to mold European and Surinamese tastes together but it just failed to work.
PETIT FOURS: Assorted Chocolates, Rum Sponge, Marshmallows, and Brownie
The last word:
Lunch at Restaurant de Lindehof was a pleasant experience to say the least. There were two reasons we wanted to try de Lindehof. 1.) It was exactly half way from our home in Belgium enroute to Dusseldorf so it would have been a welcomed lunch break. 2.) I found the idea that of a Surinamese-Dutch chef with Hindustani roots would have put a cultural spin on a Michelin Star restaurant. True, many of Chef Badahoer's dishes had elements of Indian herbs and spices and I think it's what makes his dishes standout whether they were perfect or mediocre. Our time was well spent and I have to say that all the staff were very amicable.
Restaurant de Lindehof has a two course lunch meal at 32.50 Euro including coffee and petit fours or you could try the Soenil's Signature Menu (which I had) at 42.50 Euro including three of de Lindehof's favorite dishes.
*Side note: Towards the end of lunch service, we saw a truck pullling up to deliver some new plants for the restaurant. None other than Chef Badahoer ran out to help the guy unload the plants and carry each heavy stump himself to his domain. Kudos-not only is he a gastronomic chef but also a well rounded guy. He could have asked any one of his staff to do it for him, but he chose to undertake the task himself.
My Score: 16/20
Food: 4
Presentation: 4
Ambiance: 4
Staff: 4
Restaurant de Lindehof - Beekstraat 1, Nuenen CS 5671
http://www.restaurant-delindehof.nl/Dutch/Welkom-de-lindehof.html
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