Showing posts with label One Star. Show all posts
Showing posts with label One Star. Show all posts

Sunday, May 13, 2012

Glass Hostaria

Glass Hostaria - Rome



Cobbled streets, noisy students, empty beer bottles.  Windy alleys, neon signs, dingy pubs.  These are the sights and sounds of funky Trastevere.  One of Rome's members to the Michelin Guide System have settled down here as well.  Head Chef Cristina Bowerman runs Glass Hostaria serving up modern takes on Italian classics and other nouveau dishes here since 2005.

After countless trattorias my wife and I visited during our sojourn in Rome, we decided to try Glass Hostaria for a different approach on Italian cuisine.  Instead of choosing the affordable 4 course @ 65 Euro set dinner, my wife and I opted for choosing specific dishes off the menu instead. 

BREAD

Of the six different bread variations that they brought before the amuse bouche, only two are worth mentioning.  The large crispy fennel cracker and the black squid ink with dried fruits bread.


AMUSE BOUCHE: Lettuce Soup, Bacon, and Ricotta

Our amuse bouche was this lettuce soup that our waiter said was a cold amuse bouche.  To their correction however, the soup was indeed not cold but pretty much lukewarm.  It was garnished with bacon bits and ricotta cheese.  They served the same dish to my wife who had informed them that she doesn't eat meat (nonetheless bacon bits were still on her portion). 
Also, if it was supposed to be a cold soup, why was the dish almost tepid in temperature?  Shouldn't it have been served in cold plates? 


MY APPETIZER: Tagliolini with Leeks, Oysters and Vanilla Oil

At 22 Euros, I was hoping for more than two oysters but as you can see, that was it.  It was pretty tasty though for such a simple dish.  I know less is more for the credo of most chefs but this dish needed an extra (something) just to given it some character.


HER APPETIZER: Mushroom Puree and Poached Eggs.

At 18 Euros, this was my wife's appetizer which was suggested by the waiter in lieu of what was proposed on the menu.  She said it wasn't bad but for a mushroom puree though it tasted exactly like roasted chestnuts.  I also have to add the plating skills on this dish make it look like some kind of unedible gloop rather than a Michelin starred dish.


HER MAIN COURSE: Pastificio dei Campi Linguine, Roasted Red Pepper Water, and Anchovies from Cetara

22 Euros. Unfortunately she didn't like it and neither did I.  It was kind of a mish mash of odd flavours.  Perhaps it was a question of palate, but I would never reorder to it give it another try.


MY MAIN COURSE: White Fish, Curry, Coconut and Eggplant 

This was my main course and by far the most unpleasant.  The eggplant and eggplant based capellini were not bad but the 'white fish' was flavourless and was seriously overcooked.  As soon as I had tasted the first biteful, I just wanted to ask for the check and leave.  I was really let down by such shoddy cooking.  28 Euros and hardly justifiable.


DESSERT: Banana Ice Cream, Raspberry Flakes, Peanut Butter and Chocolate Sponge Cake

Ok, so their pastry chef wasn't that bad.  It was a good dessert but what you see in the picture is 12 Euros for miniscule porportions!



PETIT FOURS: Orange Lollipops, Chocolate Madeleines, Pate de Fruits, Creme Caramel, Shredded Coconut Chocolate, and Buttered Fudge

I found the petit fours to be a nice touch although their chocolate madeleines were dry and frankly, almost stale.  Other than that, we quite enjoyed the rest of them. 

The last word:

After a bill of 120 Euros for two people, in my opinion, I could definitely advise fellow gourmets (in search of fine cuisine) to steer clear of this restaurant.  I just can't see how come Michelin chose this establishment to be a 1 starred restaurant.  The chef came and spoke to us after dinner to say a quick hello and she was friendly enough but I felt it impolite to tell her that I didn't enjoy her food.  It wasn't like we were ever going to return and I decided that she was probably lucky when the inspectors came.  In retrospect, perhaps I should have said something to her.  I guess this is another (could have, would have, should have) situation.

We also had one bizarre encounter with one member of staff.  Due to the fact that my wife was pregnant, she asked the sommelier if she could order a Virgin Bloody Mary.  ''Impossible'' he replied.  He told her the best thing he could get her was water or beer.  Beer??? She had just told him that she wanted a non-alcoholic beverage and he replied that he had a good beer that he could offer instead.  Perhaps a lack of translation skills?  I think not.  Miracously, he was able to find a bottle of Schweppes Lemon which my wife happily accepted.

My Score: 12.5/20


Food: 2.5
Presentation: 3
Ambiance: 4
Staff: 3


Glass Hostaria - Vicolo del Cinque 58, Rome

http://www.glass-restaurant.it/

Friday, April 6, 2012

Lindehof

Restaurant de Lindehof - Nuenen



Suriname was once a colony of the Dutch and the English in South America.  Suriname's most famous export?  Try these world class football greats: Ryan Babel, Clarence Seedorf, Patrick Kluivert, Edgar Davids, Ruud Gullit, Frank Rijkaard, among many others. 

Soenil Bahadoer runs Restaurant de Lindehof in sleepy Neunen, a village not far Eindhoven in the Netherlands.  While the exterior facade of the restaurant resembles a residence, the interiors showcase a modest but comfortable dining room and a sneak peak at a semi open kitchen behind glass doors.

Introductions were warm and curteous from restaurant staff and aperitif orders were taken swiftly.  Moments later, the glass doors opened once again to reveal a tall figure with a dark complexion.  He was none other than head chef, Soenil Bahadoer.  Dressed in his chef whites and Diesel Jeans, he personally greeted my wife and I to welcome us to his restaraunt.  A moment later he excused himself to attend to his duties.

AMUSE BOUCHE: Left: Various Vegetable Crisps Right: White Chocolate, Mascarpone, Basil with Chocolate Pearls



APPETIZER: Braised Octopus, Sole Sous Vide, Red Shiso, Oxtail, Shaved Beetroot

A pretty looking dish indeed.  The star of the dish for me was the shaved beetroot (only because I'm extremely partial to it).  The fish was fine too however lacking in that extra oomph to bring everything together.  What is it with chefs and oxtail???  I don't think I have been to one high end restaurant that doesn't have oxtail in a dish or on its menu!


MAIN COURSE: Caged 'Wild' Duck with Foie Gras, Port Jelly, Asparagus and Green Onion

When I was presented this dish, the waiter asked me to start with the foie gras 'bombe' atop of the jellied port biscuit.  Pure bliss.  The combination of the foie gras and port jelly was just a perfect match of gelatin and creaminess.  I was then instructed to eat the duck breast covered in a dry rub of five spice with spring onion and finally the duck with asparagus.  The version on the left, I suspect was Badahoer's interpretation of Peking Duck sans the hoisin sauce and the pancakes.  On the right, the meat was packed with flavour and well seasoned.  I'm positive the use of asparagus was to showcase the fact that it was a seasonal item.  Tasty as it was, I didn't get the combination of all the elements on the plate.  There was no sense of belonging other than the fact that the key of this dish was the delicious duck.


DESSERT: Peanut Butter Ice Cream and Cake, Carrot, and Garam Marsala and Cardamom


Be it the presentation or the taste of the dessert, there was something clearly lacking.  It seemed to have all the right ideas alas, it's a dish I wouldn't order again.  It's obvious that Chef Badahoer wanted to mold European and Surinamese tastes together but it just failed to work.

PETIT FOURS: Assorted Chocolates, Rum Sponge, Marshmallows, and Brownie


The last word:

Lunch at Restaurant de Lindehof was a pleasant experience to say the least.  There were two reasons we wanted to try de Lindehof. 1.) It was exactly half way from our home in Belgium enroute to Dusseldorf so it would have been a welcomed lunch break.  2.) I found the idea that of a Surinamese-Dutch chef with Hindustani roots would have put a cultural spin on a Michelin Star restaurant.  True, many of Chef Badahoer's dishes had elements of Indian herbs and spices and I think it's what makes his dishes standout whether they were perfect or mediocre.  Our time was well spent and I have to say that all the staff were very amicable.

Restaurant de Lindehof has a two course lunch meal at 32.50 Euro including coffee and petit fours or you could try the Soenil's Signature Menu (which I had) at 42.50 Euro including three of de Lindehof's favorite dishes.

*Side note: Towards the end of lunch service, we saw a truck pullling up to deliver some new plants for the restaurant.  None other than Chef Badahoer ran out to help the guy unload the plants and carry each heavy stump himself to his domain.  Kudos-not only is he a gastronomic chef but also a well rounded guy.  He could have asked any one of his staff to do it for him, but he chose to undertake the task himself. 

My Score: 16/20


Food: 4
Presentation: 4
Ambiance: 4
Staff: 4

Restaurant de Lindehof - Beekstraat 1, Nuenen CS 5671

http://www.restaurant-delindehof.nl/Dutch/Welkom-de-lindehof.html





Wednesday, March 7, 2012

Látelier Du Peintre

L'atelier Du Peintre - Colmar, France



It is such a welcome feeling when you dine at a restaurant when after you finish your main course, you realize you had a great dinner.  The feeling is intensified even more so when you realize that you had just had dinner at a Michelin starred restaurant without any prior knowledge.

L'atelier du peintre was truly a little gem of a restaurant.  Translated from French, it means 'the workshop of the painter' - a reference to Martin Schongauer, a German painter/engraver from the 15th century in Colmar.  Though the dining room echoed signs of transformation from a previous tenant in the past - the modern transition of what is now L'atelier du peintre is quite remarkable. 


Amuse Bouche: Smoked Salmon with Shaved Toasted Almonds, Deep Fried Pork Pastry


Appetizer: Brittany Lobster Ravioli, Carrots, Basil, Verveine Soup

All you need is one bite of this succulent lobster ravioli to understand that Chef Lefebvre knows exactly what he's doing.  Perfectly cooked lobster filled the contents of this delicate ravioli pasta appetizer.  One mouthful was enough to put a smile on my face, put down my fork, and realize that I'd had maybe one of my favorite dishes this year.



After a perfect appetizer, you would have though that the main course would have gotten even better.  Not so at this restaurant.  I couldn't fault the scallops nor the season vegetables but what was the culprit you ask?  Orange jus.  It just made the flavors all too sickly sweet.  It really diluted some of the scallop's flavours of sea and replaced it with sweet citrus?  I think this was creativity taken too far.

Main Course: Seasonal Vegetables, Scallops, & Orange Jus


Dessert: Braided Vermicelli, Lemon Mousse and Sorbet, Mint and Marshmallow

After a dismal main course, things picked up once again with a stellar dessert.  The fluffy marshmallows pressed tightly against the lemon mousse was lovely and the use of braided vermicelli was excellent for a bit of contrast with the texture.  It was great how the mint played against the sourness of the lemon - which was balanced with natural flavours of the vermicelli, and once again paired up against the sweetness of the marshamallow. 


Petit Fours: Powdered Almonds & Madeleine, Chocolate With Lime Jelly & Pate de Fruits

I didn't eat the almonds because I had chipped a tooth so my choices were: madeleine or the chocolate or the pate de fruits.  At this point, most of us were full so I made a choice - I ate all four morsels of the pate de fruits before anyone changed their mind.

Our party had chosen a la carte items from the menu instead of sticking to the restaurant's extremely well priced menu for dinner.  To this day, I'm still not sure why we didn't go for the menu as our a la carte choices totalled the same price of a menu (that included more dishes).

Dinner service has three different menus:

The Goya (3 courses) at 37€
The Petit Galerie (5 courses) at 57€
The Grande Galerie (7 courses) at 72€

I'd highly recommend this resaurant to anyone in search of a reputable restaurant in sleepy Colmar.  It isn't hard to find top notch food in the town but I feel that this restaurant has something a little bit special that sets itself apart from its competitors.

*Side note: If any of you have seen Gordon Ramsay's Kitchen Nightmares, Mr.Lefebvre was featured as the  head chef of the Inverness restaurant, Abstract.  After filming Kitchen Nightmares, it seemed as if things were going well for Abstract and they were poised to get their first Michelin star.  Obviously, it did not pan out that way  Due to a row with Abstract's owner (reasons unknown), Chef Lefebvre relocated to Colmar where he opened L'atelier De Peintre.



My Score: 17/20

Food: 4
Presentation: 4.5
Ambiance: 4.5

Staff: 4

L'Atelier Du Peintre - 1, Rue Schongauer, Colmar, France
http://atelier-peintre.fr/


Monday, April 12, 2010

Moo

Moo – Barcelona



One questions the name Moo for a restaurant. The exaggerated idea of a steakhouse comes to mind given the name, Moo, however this is not the case. Restaurant Moo is actually housed in a design boutique hotel called Omm near the prestigious Paseo de Gracia in Barcelona.
Under the guidance of the Spanish culinary heroes, the Roca brothers, restaurant Moo serves hotel patrons and restaurant goers a take on Modern Catalan cuisine. It’s accolades include a Michelin star, a talented chef by the name of Felip Llufriu and several awards for best sommelier/wine list.

I chose the Mid Day Moo Menu priced at 45€ as well as one dish from the a la carte menu: the ‘Golden Egg’ priced at a supplement of 15€.


AMUSE BOUCHE: Bloody Mary Gelee, Truffled Macaroons, Wasabi Dumpling, and Shrimp Cracker


AMUSE BOUCHE #2: (from left to right) Cold Japanese Soup with Red Shiso, Cauliflower ‘Vichyssoise’ with assorted Seafood, and Wakame, Shiso, and Glutinous Rice.


FIRST DISH: The Golden Egg

Many foodies have different opinions of what ingredients define the Golden Egg appetizer. I recall egg yolk, a syrup infused candy shell for an exterior and potato puree on the inside. This spherical beauty of a dish left me praising the chef(s) for their creativity and ingenuity.


SECOND DISH: Millefeuile of Wild Mushrooms & Foie Gras

Everytime a Foie Gras dish is served to me at a restaurant, I always feel the superficial glare of some restaurant go-er who wants to educate me about how Foie Gras should be banned. Till now, no angry comments from other foodies but I do it’s just a matter of time before my luck runs out. I have to say this dish was superb. I know the word éarthiness’ is extremely redundant however it is the correct term to describe it. The edible flowers, the slices of wild mushroom, and sprouts and naturally the thick wedges of succulent foie gras were a triumph.


MAIN DISH: Panfried Red Gurnard with Diced Vegetables and Miso

Two years after eating at Moo, the idea for my own food blog began. So in truth, I’m really guessing that the fish was indeed a Red Gurnard however, I could be mistaken. What I do remember is that of all the dishes I tried, this was probably the weakest due to the overall flavours of the dish. It was just an average dish and the presentation could have vastly been improved.


DESSERT: Forest Fruits and Vegetables Salad

When you are presented a dessert which has both fruits and vegetables in it, you begin to question have the kitchen brigade gone a bit too far in creativity. Sure, we’ve all heard of carrot cake and sweet potato pastries, but bar those two, it isn’t a popular choice for a sweet tooth such as myself. How wrong I could have been. The dessert was faultless in execution, pleasing to the eye and unbelievably delicious.


I praise the Roca brothers for their artistic vision and the dedication to Moo. It certainly deserved the praise that I read about prior to booking my reservation there. Had I been a frequent traveler to Barcelona, I would have been sure to eat there more often – alas, this is not the case. Faults? Yes, there were some. Minor issues with the timing of the dishes coming out of the kitchen and some of the flavors (especially on the fish dish) made me realize that it’s not a perfect restaurant although that’s not exactly the entire idea for Moo in my mind. I truly believe that the philosophy behind Moo was to present with creative and artistic dishes for diners to marvel and enjoy. In fact, one of the prettiest dishes I have ever seen in my life was an appetizer my wife ordered. It was a spring vegetable consomme. It definitely gets high merits for presentation.

My Score: 16/20


Food: 4
Presentation: 4.5
Ambiance: 3.5
Staff: 4

Moo Restaurant - (Hotel Omm) Rossello' 265, Barcelona

http://www.hotelomm.es/moo/default-en.html