Sunday, May 13, 2012

Glass Hostaria

Glass Hostaria - Rome



Cobbled streets, noisy students, empty beer bottles.  Windy alleys, neon signs, dingy pubs.  These are the sights and sounds of funky Trastevere.  One of Rome's members to the Michelin Guide System have settled down here as well.  Head Chef Cristina Bowerman runs Glass Hostaria serving up modern takes on Italian classics and other nouveau dishes here since 2005.

After countless trattorias my wife and I visited during our sojourn in Rome, we decided to try Glass Hostaria for a different approach on Italian cuisine.  Instead of choosing the affordable 4 course @ 65 Euro set dinner, my wife and I opted for choosing specific dishes off the menu instead. 

BREAD

Of the six different bread variations that they brought before the amuse bouche, only two are worth mentioning.  The large crispy fennel cracker and the black squid ink with dried fruits bread.


AMUSE BOUCHE: Lettuce Soup, Bacon, and Ricotta

Our amuse bouche was this lettuce soup that our waiter said was a cold amuse bouche.  To their correction however, the soup was indeed not cold but pretty much lukewarm.  It was garnished with bacon bits and ricotta cheese.  They served the same dish to my wife who had informed them that she doesn't eat meat (nonetheless bacon bits were still on her portion). 
Also, if it was supposed to be a cold soup, why was the dish almost tepid in temperature?  Shouldn't it have been served in cold plates? 


MY APPETIZER: Tagliolini with Leeks, Oysters and Vanilla Oil

At 22 Euros, I was hoping for more than two oysters but as you can see, that was it.  It was pretty tasty though for such a simple dish.  I know less is more for the credo of most chefs but this dish needed an extra (something) just to given it some character.


HER APPETIZER: Mushroom Puree and Poached Eggs.

At 18 Euros, this was my wife's appetizer which was suggested by the waiter in lieu of what was proposed on the menu.  She said it wasn't bad but for a mushroom puree though it tasted exactly like roasted chestnuts.  I also have to add the plating skills on this dish make it look like some kind of unedible gloop rather than a Michelin starred dish.


HER MAIN COURSE: Pastificio dei Campi Linguine, Roasted Red Pepper Water, and Anchovies from Cetara

22 Euros. Unfortunately she didn't like it and neither did I.  It was kind of a mish mash of odd flavours.  Perhaps it was a question of palate, but I would never reorder to it give it another try.


MY MAIN COURSE: White Fish, Curry, Coconut and Eggplant 

This was my main course and by far the most unpleasant.  The eggplant and eggplant based capellini were not bad but the 'white fish' was flavourless and was seriously overcooked.  As soon as I had tasted the first biteful, I just wanted to ask for the check and leave.  I was really let down by such shoddy cooking.  28 Euros and hardly justifiable.


DESSERT: Banana Ice Cream, Raspberry Flakes, Peanut Butter and Chocolate Sponge Cake

Ok, so their pastry chef wasn't that bad.  It was a good dessert but what you see in the picture is 12 Euros for miniscule porportions!



PETIT FOURS: Orange Lollipops, Chocolate Madeleines, Pate de Fruits, Creme Caramel, Shredded Coconut Chocolate, and Buttered Fudge

I found the petit fours to be a nice touch although their chocolate madeleines were dry and frankly, almost stale.  Other than that, we quite enjoyed the rest of them. 

The last word:

After a bill of 120 Euros for two people, in my opinion, I could definitely advise fellow gourmets (in search of fine cuisine) to steer clear of this restaurant.  I just can't see how come Michelin chose this establishment to be a 1 starred restaurant.  The chef came and spoke to us after dinner to say a quick hello and she was friendly enough but I felt it impolite to tell her that I didn't enjoy her food.  It wasn't like we were ever going to return and I decided that she was probably lucky when the inspectors came.  In retrospect, perhaps I should have said something to her.  I guess this is another (could have, would have, should have) situation.

We also had one bizarre encounter with one member of staff.  Due to the fact that my wife was pregnant, she asked the sommelier if she could order a Virgin Bloody Mary.  ''Impossible'' he replied.  He told her the best thing he could get her was water or beer.  Beer??? She had just told him that she wanted a non-alcoholic beverage and he replied that he had a good beer that he could offer instead.  Perhaps a lack of translation skills?  I think not.  Miracously, he was able to find a bottle of Schweppes Lemon which my wife happily accepted.

My Score: 12.5/20


Food: 2.5
Presentation: 3
Ambiance: 4
Staff: 3


Glass Hostaria - Vicolo del Cinque 58, Rome

http://www.glass-restaurant.it/

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